Zur Wahrung der Übersichtlichkeit hier nun die Fortsetzung der Materialschlacht aus England. Zur Erinnerung empfehle ich den Thread "Der Phönix aus der Asche".

5. Januar 2005

OK folks, I am now going to attempt a post showing the re-assembly of my rear suspension and rear wheel steering of the CSi.
The pics are a mixture of both sides of the car depending on which came out the best, so here goes, Gulp!

Well this is how it looks before we fit these -



Here -



Firstly, I fitted new rear anti-roll bar bushes into the brackets



Then applying some sealant to the top of the new upper mounts, fitted these into position.



Next, I loosely assembled the rear shockabsorber to the lower arm and inserted the top of the strut into its mount and aligned the

inner bush with the rear steering hanger and fitted the bolt and offset washer assembly. This MUST be done prior to fitting the

driveshaft as there is insufficient clearance to insert the bolt with the driveshaft mounted.





The main bearing carrier can now be offered up to the driveshaft and fitted to the rear lower arm.



Everywhere the bolts go through an arm or bush I lubricated them with copper grease, especially as my bolts were chromed and

therefore were a closer tolerance fit



Both the main lower arm and the front upper arm have offset mounting bolts/washers on the inner mount so it is essential to ensure

these are seated correctly within the slots in the mounts



The front upper arm can now be fitted from the chassis mount to the carrier



Before loosely mounting the drop arm into the front upper arm



The front lower arm can now be installed into the chassis bracket and loosely into the carrier



The huge cast drag link arm can now be fitted into position by detaching the front lower arm from the carrier, sliding it onto the

carrier and drop arm then bolting it up under the floor. The front lower arm can then be refitted and secured.



Undoing the strut top nut,(not the mounting), the lower arm can be dropped and the rear coil spring inserted into position, seating

on its rubber mounts, then jacking up the lower arm whilst inserting the strut back into its mount, fitting and securing the top

nut. The rear anti-roll bar droplink can now be fitted also.



Grease the ABS sensor before carefully refitting it in the carrier housing



Secure the ABS and pad loom with new plastic retaining clips that fell apart when you looked at them too hard earlier, :-)



All the bolts can now be torqued to spec but the rear alignment will need to be adjusted by the 2 offset rear inner mounting bolts

mentioned earlier.

Hope this has been of some use or interest to someone!
Regards to you all, Gerry in a cold and wet UK!!!!!!!!!!!

25. Januar 2005

OK then, over the past week or so I have re-assembled the rear brake assemblies. I will attempt, in just 1 post to show my procedure

without forgetting anything...........fat chance!
My first job was to prepare the discs prior to installation. To remove all traces of corrosion after 4 years of fitment, I had them

shotblasted.



The discs were then bright nickel plated again, as I had done 4 years previously, to virtually eliminate surface corrosion. The area

between the disc "bell" and the braking surface were painted with Very High Temperature(VHT) exhaust paint to further protect this

inaccessible area.



The inside of the bell, which also acts as the handbrake/parking brake drum was similarly protected adjacent to the friction surface

area.



I polished the disc bell and outer rim as these are visible through the open wheels and seem to be the main areas that show

corrosion.



Doing similar to the fronts.



The first thing I did was to chase out the paint from the backplate mounting holes in the bearing carrier.



The newly powder coated backplate was then secured with the 4 allen head screws which were fitted with threadlock.



At this point, I must stress that all tension/preload is taken off the handbrake cables, not just by lowering the handbrake lever

but also by releasing the pressure on the cables by undoing the cable adjusting nuts, under the handbrake lever gaiter. This is so

that the mechanisms shown next sit in the fully closed position. Here they are, lubricated and refitted onto the cable nipple at the

bottom of the backplate. A small smear of copper grease was applied to the backplate where the shoes move against it.



Strip, lubricate and reassemble the upper shoe screw adjuster in its fully-in position. Refit one shoe with its allen head pin and

spring, then fit the lower spring to the fitted shoe and the other shoe. Pull the loose shoe against the tension of the spring and

fit against the lower mechanism. Fit the screw adjuster between the tops of the shoes and fit the second shoe pin and spring. The

top spring can then be fitted as shown.(Hub removed for clarity)



Loosely assemble the caliper and mount to the bearing carrier and refit the brake hose to the caliper first, then to the chassis

mounted brake pipe.



Remove caliper and mount again and swing out of the way, (DO NOT ALLOW WEIGHT OF CALIPER TO HANG ON HOSE). Adjust rear handbrake

shoes as shown until the rear disc/drum will fit over the shoes snugly but without binding. It should be noted that there may be a

small lip on the outer rim of the drum from wear. Depending on budget and facilities, this can be machined off on a lathe, ground

off with a hand grinder or the disc replaced. This is to allow proper adjustment of the shoes.



Once you are happy that the disc is a snug fit with no binding, then lubricate the disc/wheel mounting flange with some copper

grease and secure the disc in position with the shouldered allen screw.Refit the caliper mounting with threadlock on the 2 mounting

bolts.(15mm head) A small smearing around the wheel centering spigot and the mounting face of the disc will prevent the wheel

sticking on in future.



applying a small amount of copper grease to the "ears" of the pads, refit these, one in the caliper, one in the mounting.



Refit the caliper to its mount with the 2, 7mm allen headed sliders and refit the plastic dirt covers.



You can now refit the pad warning light loom into position and the brake is ready to bleed. The handbrake cables can now be adjusted

from inside the car, I prefer the adjustment to be 3 clicks to hold the car normally.